I have finally got around to casting and painting up a couple of units of hussars. I don't know how everyone else is getting on with these moulds, but I found that they needed a lot of venting before I could get decent castings - they seem to be working fine now.
As I have said in the past I tend to be pretty easy going when it comes to interpreting uniforms, opting for things I fancy rather than strict interpretations; and I used that approach with the hussars.
Prussian Hussar Regiment No.7 - von Malachowski
In assembling the unit I made one significant change; back in 2017 (see post 20/03/2017) Aly Morrison made some heads with a mirliton streamer extended, and I used these heads on my figures. It was not possible for PA to make a head with the streamer trailing due to the pressures exerted on the master figure during manufacturing process (I did ask).
In 1743 Frederick had ordered the hussars to return their standards, however I really like my units to carry flags, so I looked around for an excuse to include one (I think I would have given them one anyway). On February 23 1758 detachments of Ruesch Hussars and Malachowski hussars captured four standards of the French Polleresky Hussards at Stöcken-Drebber and also one from Royal-Cravate Cavalerie at Düffelward on June 2 1758. For these actions, Frederick granted two of the Pollaresky Hussars standards to Malachowski Hussars - so they carry a French standard.
I gave up on trying to paint the dog-tooth edging to the saddle cloth, that amount of detail in yellow on blue was too much like hard work!
Austrian Hussar Regiment No. 10 - Palatinal
Most of the Austrian hussars wore the fur kolback, however as for the Prussians I fancied using Aly Morrison's mirliton heads, so I delved into my reference material to see if I could justify it. Kronoskaff came up trumps, according to the Bautzener Bilderhandschrift, both regiment No. 8 - Dessewffy (H 34) and No. 10 Palatinal (H 36) possibly wore black mirlitons - good enough for me.
The Austrian officers and trumpeters would probably have worn a frock coat and tricorn, however PA decided not to include that option so the unit will have to make do with the same hussar officer as the Prussians; I did however give the officer a tricorn pinched from the Hungarian infantry.
Outstanding! I too have had some issues with the Hussar molds. I added some vents which mostly did the trick. When the sword and carbine are the only thing not to succeed, I clip them and the pour spout lug or whatever it’s called off, leave the figure in the mold, and re-pour. Works every time. I also find it helpful to use my highest grade alloy with those molds.
ReplyDeleteI actually used the 'carbine' from the dragoon mould as I had better castings, the ones in the hussar did cast, but they were not as well defined.
DeleteThey look super!
ReplyDeleteThanks - the photos look a bit 'washed out' , I have a new phone and have not yet mastered the camera.
DeleteThey look well enough painted up and may be more accurate in detail but for me they lack the spirit of the old Rosbach French Hussars.
ReplyDeleteI have never much liked the Rosbach French hussars (PA 63-65), I have a couple of units painted up but don't often use them.
DeleteI DO like the Prussian hussars from that range (PA 49 with PA 52 as officer), however they are a bit small relative to the new range.
Brilliant.
ReplyDeleteTa.
DeleteThey look the business mate…
ReplyDeleteAll the best. Aly
It's the heads that make them :-)
DeleteThey look wonderful. I was first sceptical, when you said the horses will be a little more dynamic and not marching. But now when I see the result (have bought the moulds already) I love the poses. True, the newer moulds are more difficult to cast, but vents solve every problem so far: many thin vents, and the air can escape. Also I add bismuth.
ReplyDeleteDoes the bismuth make a lot of difference, if so how much do you add - I use melted down old figures?
DeleteThere is bismuth in PA’s Modelmetal. The mix I have sourced here in the States pretty much matches Modelmetal. It gets pretty darn good tesults.
ReplyDeleteHi Steve, I think yes, it does change a lot. I add about 10 % of bismuth. You can buy this metal in blocks or pellets. Blocks are the cheapest, but of course need to be modified in smaller portions yourself which cost also heat and time. It is true that PA's modelmetal includes bismuth. As for me, I buy tin second hand at the scrap yard where old tin cans and plates are collected separately. This tin is about 95% tin and a little cupper and other metals. Lead I buy also as block. First I mix 50:50 tin and lead and add the 10 % bismuth - sometimes a little less. I do that by eye and hand (not measure it exactly.) What makes bismuth. This metal expands when cooling down. It means when it is liquid, it uses less space than hard. When it gets hard in the mould, it slightly expands and gives a very clear/crisp print of the surface of the mould. I see the most differences in the heads or uniform details like the part of sword that is hold by hands, buttons of uniforms and so on. On the other extrem would be a cast with pur tin. Liquid tin is rather thick-liquid (hope you understand). The details are not clear. Lead is rather liquid, but when it is hard, it is very weak. Also bismuth makes that the alloy melts at lower temperature, which means, that it stays longer liquid in the mould and this allows to flow in thin parts like muskets or spikes of wheels. I have noticed the excellent "print" of figures with moulds of Zinnbrigade. Their faces and details are clear but very thin drawn. It makes a visible difference. For the wonderful newer figures/moulds of PA, it is worth and also because the painting job takes a long time, so that the money invested to bismuth is worth. Check ebay for bismuth /german also Wismut). I have bought mine at www.zinngiesserei-goehler.com in Saxony, Germany. Price 2 x 15 kg block 518 Eur (bought it january 2023). Now I have for the next years. I recommand this company very much. Quick answers and delivery. You have also offers on ebay - especially for pellets. - Scrap metal (from wine bottles and other stuff) I also use and with my experience, I add then first lead and at the end some bismuth. if the print is good without bismuth, I don't add, or only very few. As the figures are only for me, no need for a perfect and same alloy. Be careful not to add too much bismuth. Pure bismuth can be broken easy, when it is a thin piece. It does not bend, but just breaks and you see clearly the cristals. Therefor a good mix is ideal, otherwise the muskets break quickly or bend easy. Hope this is helpful for you.
ReplyDelete5 to 10 % bismuth. I do not put more.
DeleteThanks for the information on bismuth.
DeleteStephan thanks for this
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